Brown velvet double-breasted tuxedo

The required decorum of a 19th century British gentlemen managing his guests’ sense of smell meant that the smoking jacket was originally worn exclusively in the smoking room. Seduced by the garment, the American James Potter transgressed the rule and in 1886 wore this jacket with its satin lapels to the Tuxedo Club in New York. He popularised the use of its new name. Completed with braided trousers, a plastron shirt and a bow tie, in the 20th century this ensemble became the signature attire for men frequenting casinos and cocktail parties, or her Majesty’s Secret Services, like James Bond.

Matt and smooth on one side, soft and silky on the other, this Oriental fabric, imported into Europe by the Italians in the 14th century, was then made in silk and remained essentially a luxury product until the end of the 19th century. Used to make workman’s trousers in a ribbed version known as corduroy, the king’s fabric was democratised and earned its stripes as both a mainstream and prestigious material.