Navy blue wool and mohair tuxedo

The required decorum of a 19th century British gentlemen managing his guests’ sense of smell meant that the smoking jacket was originally worn exclusively in the smoking room. Seduced by the garment, the American James Potter transgressed the rule and in 1886 wore this jacket with its satin lapels to the Tuxedo Club in New York. He popularised the use of its new name. Completed with braided trousers, a plastron shirt and a bow tie, in the 20th century this ensemble became the signature attire for men frequenting casinos and cocktail parties, or her Majesty’s Secret Services, like James Bond.

This is what we call fibres that come from the first shearing of a sheep or lamb. They have been neither spun nor felted nor part of any other finished product, and contain no more than 0.3% of impurities.

Provided by angora goats from Asia Minor, this wool is as light as it is insulating and protects from the cold, the heat and any risk of inelegance. Blended with other fabrics it can also soften the cloth of certain suits.